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发表于 2017-8-23 17:12:41| 字数 12,697| - 中国–广东–广州 中移铁通
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本帖最后由 qq634906172 于 2017-9-8 03:29 编辑
PS：15.6寸有很多Lvds接口的低端IPS屏幕，例如LP156WHA-SLL1，不用修改AB壳直接可以用！！还有LP156WF4-SLB2、B156HAN01.0等薄屏IPS，Face mounting holes，与原机上的Side mounting holes不一样。本文就是通过改造使安装IPS薄屏成功。
W520/W530的修改方式是接近的，可以参考下面的帖子。
目前也有些lvds转edp的转接板上更好的IPS屏幕，准吧不少蓝天lvds机型已有改造成功案例。
本站也有成功例子：
https://www.ibmnb.com/forum.php ... &tid=1751916&extra=
原帖位置
https://forum.thinkpads.com//viewtopic.php?t=118789
翻译水平有限，见谅。
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Well... the good news is the panel works fine when plugged in, is downright gorgeous compared to the original TN panel, and is only about half as thick and weighs noticeably less than the original.
好吧，好消息是，面板工作正常，插入时，完全比原来的TN面板华丽。IPS屏幕只有原屏幕大约一半的厚度，要小得多。
The bad news is... it won't work without more serious modifications, which I'm not comfortable doing.
坏消息是。。。没有复杂改动是不会正常工作的。而且改动一点也不轻松。
Problems:
问题：
1) The LCD display area is not centered in its housing. The screen is about 1/8" shifted to the left. Since the W520's screen is centered, this results in the display case hardware being visible by about 1/32" on the right, and about 3/32" of the visible portion of the screen is covered by the black plastic LCD trim bezel on the left.
LCD显示区域不在其外壳中心。 屏幕左右偏移约1/8“，由于W520的屏幕居中，因此显示屏硬件在右侧约1/32”可见，约3/32“的可见部分被左侧的黑色塑料LCD镶边挡板覆盖。
2) This flavor of display has the electronics mounted on a "tab" below the screen, which protrudes about 1/2" from the bottom of the screen. This interferes with the microphones on the LED card and also blocks the center screw hole for the LCD trim bezel. I took a peek inside the tape covering the electronics board to see if it could be relocated, and I didn't see anything which would support that desire.
这种屏幕的电子元件在屏幕下方的“标签”上，从屏幕底部突出大约1/2“，不仅妨碍了LED面板上的麦克风，还阻挡了屏框的中心螺丝孔。我撕开电子板的屏蔽胶带，看看是否有搬迁的余地，但没有看到任何地方支持这种想法。
Most of problem 2 could be resolved if I decided I didn't need the built-in microphones; I could simply cut off the right 3/4 of the LED card, simply not use the center screw, and call it a day. 我如果决定不需要内置麦克风，问题2就能大致解决; 我可以简单地切断右侧3/4的LED面板，且不使用中心螺丝孔，我切了一天。
Problem 1 is more of an aesthetic problem than anything else. Since there's about 1/16" of a black border around the active area of the screen, all the active pixels should be visible if the screen was mounted without modifying the horizontal placement. Nonetheless... the only way I could anticipate this being resolved completely would be by shimming the left of the screen to move it to the right.
问题1比其他任何事情都更影响外观。 因为屏幕可视区域周围有大约1/16“的黑色边框，如果不修改屏幕水平位置就显示不全。预想的、唯一的解决方法是将屏幕完全从左边的边缘移动到右边。
However... doing so would require you to also find a way to move the right screen mount arm further to the right. There are a few ways I could imagine doing that, but all involve metalwork which I'm not nearly proficient enough at (cutting the ends off, welding additional material, heating the metal to bend it at sharp angles, etc.).
然而，将右侧屏轴向右移动也是一种方法。 我可以想像到好几种方法修改，但都涉及金属改造，我不太在行（切割结束，焊接附加材料，加热金属，以锐角弯曲等）。
I'd keep this screen if I had a spare T520 or W520 LCD top cover/LED card and set of hinges/screen mounting arms to experiment on. But since I don't... I think I'll have to shelf this dream for now, or at least until I can acquire a cheap top cover to experiment with. I've not totally given up yet, so stay tuned (or share some ideas ).
我会保留屏幕现状，除非有一个备用的T520或W520的A面，LED灯面板和屏轴进行实验。 但是，由于我没有...所以我现在必须搁置这个想法，至少直到我获得一个便宜的A面来实验。 我还没有完全放弃，敬请关注（或分享一些想法）。
Okay. Here's the "how it was done..." part.
改造部分
I have not yet found a permanent method to secure the LCD to the lid, so I need to take care to always open it with two hands (or open it in the middle of the screen, not on just the left or the right side) or else the front trim bezel pops open slightly at the bottom on either side. The only "casualty" of the modding process was the right microphone, where I accidentally slipped with the Dremel and ground through one of the traces on the microphone/LED card... but otherwise everything works and looks great!
我还没有找到永久性的方法来将屏幕固定到盖子上，所以我需要总是小心地用双手打开它（或者在屏幕中间打开它，而不是在左边或右边），否则屏框会在任一侧略微翘开。改装过程中唯一的“伤员”是右侧麦克风，我不小心连同电动打磨机滑倒地面，放在地面上的麦克风/ LED面板。但是其他部件看起来和运作起来都很棒！
I used an LP156WF4(SL)(B5) instead of LP156WF4(SL)(B1) due to the slightly higher brightness (300 cd/m vs. 250 cd/m for other models of this screen; the factory AUO panel is 270 cd/m). From what I can tell LP156WF4(SL)(B1) through (B7) are all interchangeable aside from their respective color/brightness/contrast characteristics.
我使用LP156WF4（SL）（B5）而不是LP156WF4（SL）（B1），因为它亮度稍高一点（300 cd /m，其他型号为250 cd /m;友达面板为270 cd /m）。从LP156WF4（SL）（B1）到（B7）参数可以看出，除了各自的颜色/亮度/对比度特性不同之外，它们都是相同，可通用的。
Modifications are required to the back of the LCD lid, the front LCD trim bezel, the right hinge, AND the LCD panel itself. All of the modifications are purely physical in nature, but doing any of this requires a good, steady hand as some grinding/cutting is required to make clearance. Also, as was noted above, you will need an LVDS (40 pin) LCD extension cable.
A壳，B壳，右侧屏轴以及屏幕面板本身需要进行修改。所有这些修改都是纯粹的物理改造，要做好这些任务，需要巧手，因为需要进行一些磨削/切割才能解决问题。另外，如上所述，您还需要一个LVDS（40针）延长版屏线。
Tools I used included a precision Phillips bit P000 and standard a standard Phillips P0, a hobby knife, scissors, side cutters, a hot melt glue gun, and a rotary cutting tool (e.g. Dremel) with a cutoff wheel and small grinder head bits.
我使用的工具包括精密的菲利浦钻头P000和标准的菲利普斯P0螺丝起子，刻刀，剪刀，侧铣刀，热熔胶枪，以及带有切割轮和小磨头钻头的旋转切削工具（例如电动打磨机）。
Take off the front trim bezel and remove the right hinge. Use a rotary cutting tool to slice in half, lengthwise, through the long arm of the hinge, from just over the attachment point to the hinge base all the way to just before where the top attaches makes a 90 degree bend. Use a grinding tool to deburr and soften the edges somewhat. Return the hinge to the LCD cover.
取下屏框并拆下右屏轴。使用旋切工具沿轴长臂纵向方向切走一半，从固定点接近轴底座的地方到接近顶端弯曲90度的地方。使用研磨工具去除毛刺并稍微打磨边缘。然后将屏轴装回到去。
Break off/grind down all of the cast protrusions in the LCD front bezel along the bottom between the two areas recessed for the hinges - EXCEPT the "boxes" around where the three LED indicators go - including the center screw post. Also grind the upper, inner corners of the cutouts for the hinges down by about 1/16" (1.5-2mm), by about 1/16" (1.5-2mm) towards the outside edge but by about 1/8" (2.5-3mm) towards the bottom. This is required because the circuitry of the LCD is ever-so-slightly too wide to fit snugly between the interior plastic of the lid and will need to protrude through the thickness of the plastic. You won't see any protruding of the LCD circuitry when complete though.
折断/磨掉所有屏幕前面板。 除了“盒子”周围——三个LED指示灯，包括中心螺丝后的区域。 还将屏轴的上部，内侧向下切割约1/16“（1.5-2mm），朝向外边缘约1/16”（1.5-2mm），但是大约1/8“（2.5 -3mm）朝向底部，这是必需的，因为屏幕的电路板太大，太宽，不适合塞在盖子的内部里，不改造将会突出穿过塑料， 当完成时您不会看到屏幕面版任何突出部分。
Break off/grind down the cast protrusions in the back part of the LCD lid along the center in the bottom, including the removal of the center screw post - EXCEPT the area around where the LED indicators are and where the "cable channels" near the hinges are. Also grind down about 1/16" (1.5-2mm) of the "J" shaped upper cable guides near the hinges on both sides. Do NOT grind down the small tabs at the very bottom; these will help keep the front trim bezel secured when it is installed since the center screw has to be sacrificed. All of this is to allow you to recess the LED/microphone card against the back of the lid and to give the circuitry of the LCD clearance.
沿着底部的中心折断/磨掉A面的后部的铸造突起，包括拆下中心螺钉柱 - 除了LED指示灯周围的区域，以及“电缆通道”接近屏轴附近的区域，屏轴附近的约1.5-2mm的“J”形上部电缆导轨上研磨，不要研磨底部小标签，这将有助于保持前装边框的固定，必须牺牲中心螺丝，所以这一切都是为了将LED面板 /麦克风放入入盖子的背面，并给予屏幕面板空间。
Grind back the top 1/16" (1.5-2mm) or so of the white LED/microphone cable connector. This is to give additional clearance for the LCD circuit card as well. Be careful to not grind so deep as to reach the wires in the connector.
研磨LED 面板/麦克风连接器的顶部1/16“（1.5-2mm），这样可以为屏幕面板提供额外的间隙，小心不要磨得很深，以至于接近连接器的电线。
This part we will need to modify the shape of a couple areas of the LCD to allow it to fit properly. Use GREAT CARE when using a cutoff wheel here, as you certainly don't want to slip and damage any parts of the LCD that affect the visual quality of the panel! Gently lay the LCD into the lid so that it rests about with a 1/8" (2.5-3mm) gap between the left hinge and left side of the panel. It should be over top of the modified right hinge, but where the base of the hinge attaches to the arm you'll see that the LCD needs to be clearanced. Mark the area to remove, then carefully grind or use a cutoff wheel to remove this section of the panel. Don't go more than about 1/8" (3mm) into the panel from the side as you'll begin to get dangerously close to the electronics in the panel. The outer area you are removing is simply "dead plastic". Return the panel to the LCD cover and ensure it now "drops down" and fits snugly.
这部分我们将需要修改屏幕面版的几个区域的形状，以使其适合。 在这里使用切割轮时，请小心翼翼使用，除非你想滑倒并损坏液晶显示器的任何部分，并影响面板视觉质量！ 将屏幕面板轻轻放置在盖子中，使其在面板左侧铰链和左侧之间留有1/8“（2.5-3mm）间隙，应位于修改后的右侧铰链的顶部，但是底座 铰链连接到胳膊上，您将看到液晶显示屏需要清除，标记要移除的区域，然后仔细研磨或使用切割轮移除面板的这一部分，不要超过约1 / 8“（3mm）从侧面进入面板，因为您将开始靠近面板中的电子面板。 你要移除的只是外部区域“无用的塑料”。 将面板放回液晶显示屏盖上，确保现在“下落”并贴合。
I also lifted off the plastic protective cover over the LCD's circuitry to remove the two small (PH000) screws that held it securely to the panel so that I could break off the mounting tabs to move it up/down slightly. In addition, I clearanced a small section of the circuit board on the bottom left to allow it to clear the plastic edges of the LCD case near that hinge. This may not have been necessary, however based on my fitment trials it would not have fit without protruding from the cover. Again, take great care if you do this...
我还将液晶显示器电路上的塑料保护盖从塑料保护罩上取下，以便将两个小型（PH000）螺丝固定在面板上，使我能将安装卡舌轻轻地向上/向下移动。 另外，我在左下方的电路板的一小部分上，可以打磨屏轴附近的A面的塑料边缘。 这可能是没有必要的，但是基于我的试验，不改造将不适合且从盖子突出。 再次，如果你这样做，请小心。。
Break off the two lower mounting tabs on the LCD, then bend the upper two mounting tabs down slightly (perhaps 15-20°) but don't break them off.
拆下液晶显示屏上的两个下部安装卡舌，然后将上部两个安装卡舌略微向下弯曲（可能为15-20°），但不要将其断开。
At this point you should have done enough clearancing to test fit the LCD into the cover assembly. With the LED/microphone card in, you may notice that it's difficult to keep the front bezel snapped in place along the middle of the bottom. Since there's no center screw anymore, you can choose to use some double sided tape in this area against the LCD to keep it secured. However, you may also want to consider gluing the LED/microphone card in place such that it is bent slightly in the area of the microphones so it is stays as close as possible to the back of the cover to give room for the LCD circuit board.
在这一点上，您应该已经做了足够的清理来测试将LCD装入盖组件。 使用LED /麦克风卡时，您可能会注意到，将前挡板卡在底部中间位置很困难。 由于没有中心螺丝，您可以选择在这个区域使用一些双面胶带与液晶显示器保持固定。 但是，您也可以考虑将LED /麦克风卡粘贴在适当位置，使其在麦克风区域稍微弯曲，以便它尽可能靠近盖子的背面，为LCD电路板留出空间。
To do this, get a hot glue gun and glue the three sides around the LED indicator "boxes" to the LED card under the connector. Then once this has cooled, do the same in a couple areas along the right portion of the card and try to bend the card so that the microphones are as recessed as possible. Don't go too crazy here; you don't want to break the card or lift the area of the card around the connector.
要做到这一点，得到一个热胶枪，并将LED指示灯“盒子”周围的三边胶合到连接器下面的LED卡上。 然后，一旦这个冷却，在卡的右边部分的几个区域中进行相同的操作，并尝试弯曲卡片，使麦克风尽可能凹进。 不要太疯狂了 您不想打破卡片或提起连接器周围卡片的区域。
Now you should get something behind the LCD to help keep it pushed forward so the front of the screen meets the LCD bezel. I used some duct tape layered over itself numerous times, stuck on in key places, to keep the screen pushed forward. I also put a couple thin strips against the left hinge arm to keep the screen pushed to the right. (see photo above)
现在你应该在LCD后面找到一些东西，以帮助它保持向前推，使屏幕的前方与LCD面板相符。 我使用了一些胶带分层自己多次，卡在关键的地方，以保持屏幕向前推。 我还将一些细条贴在左铰链臂上，以保持屏幕向右推。 （见上图）
Now get the LCD extension cable and connect then affix it with tape so that you have something that looks similar to this:
现在得到液晶延长电缆，然后连接，然后用磁带粘贴，这样你可以看到类似的东西：
As I mentioned before, I haven't yet decided how exactly I want to secure the LCD to the lid. Feel free to use tape, glue, epoxy, or come up with some clever way to use the original mounts with new screw mounts. I simply tacked a small dab of hot glue to the corners to hold it in lightly until I do something more permanent. I advise you test fit with the trim bezel in place to be sure everything lines up.
正如我之前提到的，我还没有决定如何将LCD固定在盖子上。 随意使用胶带，胶水，环氧树脂，或者提供一些聪明的方式使用新的螺丝钉安装座。 我只是把一小块热胶粘在角落上，轻轻握住它，直到我做更永久的事情。 我建议你使用修剪挡板测试合适的位置，以确保一切顺利。
Once you've secured the LCD to the lid, route the cable out the right hinge, put the LCD bezel back on, reinstall... and enjoy!!一旦将屏幕固定到盖子上，将电缆从右侧铰链中拉出来，将屏框重新安装上，然后将屏幕总成重新安装回去即可！
Well, a little update for those interested.
I decided to try and find a more permanent mounting solution for the LG panel (one that didn't involve tape) and was able to epoxy a couple of brass screw standoffs to the top of the LCD cover, so now I have a good, solid place to screw the screen in at the top to. I'm putting the finishing touches on a couple metal "tabs" or brackets that will go between the screw and hinge at the bottom which should secure the lower part of the screen in place. Space is really tight along the bottom, so we'll see if that pans out how I want it to. Otherwise I've got a couple other ideas.
The real problem I've run into now is one of my own making. As I was fitting the panel to figure out how to create good mount points, I must have put too much pressure on a corner at some point which cracked the screen. Great, I think... now I need another screen. So I hit up feebay and find one with the part number I'm interested in (LP156WF4 SLB5) and order it, but it shows up as an SLC1 variant which is glossy. No can-do, so I sent it back and kept an eye out for -SLB5... then I just sent a message to the guy I bought the first one from and asked if he had more, which he did. So I bought two - knowing that they're hard to find in any condition, much less new.
I prepared another one to go in... which didn't show anything on the display after I installed it. I took it out to find the LCD extension cable was coming apart at the connector due to all the connecting/removing it had been subjected to... and its moving around on me blew two of the LCD fuses on the motherboard. So now I'm waiting to get a couple replacement LCD extension cables and some replacement fuses, then MAYBE I can put the final finishing touches on this "little" project.
Once I do, I'll set up the spare LCD assembly I have as a direct "bolt on" replacement in case someone out there wants an IPS FHD T520 or W520 without all the hassle.
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